To anaesthetise the ache of long, silent February days I embark on a series of ill prepared, vaguely plotted excursions.
As the country plunges into a sudden, severe cold spell, I throw random toiletries, books and clothes into an overnight bag and dive towards Wales.
I drive blind, headlong into the future. Its plains and valleys as yet unmapped.
It’s one of those bitter blue days when the morning sky is delivered, crisp and clean, from the Arctic, and the world appears to be bringing itself into being, moment by moment.
I’m travelling with a location-aware phone, a sat nav, glovebox atlas and that hidden slither of precious metal, lodged deep within our brains. The one we think only migrating birds have, but we have too. And it’s directing me now, I can feel it tingling, taking its reading from trees, forks in the road, distant hills and buried memories.
I sit, surrounded by wires. Little black boxes, blinking lights. My car seat cocooned by stuff designed to keep me content, safe and secure. I drive over the border.
And I see Mark, strapped into his hospital bed. His black boxes flashing, whirring, delivering tiny parcels of sedatives to salve his agitated brain as he approaches death, retreats, reverses, and starts over again.
I want to escape. As Mark did. In his more restless moments he would churn and thrash wildly, hooking his good leg under his paralysed one, in a desperate attempt to hoist his steroid-bloated body over the roll bars of his confinement, and launch his spirit – ailing but fighting – into the world again. One last push.
“Come on, let’s go…” he’d plead at me, longingly. “Let’s go home. Aren’t you going to help me?”
He’d tear and pull at his syringe drivers, their whisker-slim needles subcutaneously and stealthily invading his body with a cocktail of narcotics. A prescription designed to keep him from detouring anywhere other than his appointed route.
It took more strength then I thought I had to not to be his accomplice. And sometimes, now, I wish I had been. But I took the doctor’s side, and I fell for their ministrations.
That’s the deal with terminal illness. You take the journey, together alone, until at the very last moment, all control is wrested away from you. Like hapless pilots in a 70s disaster movie, Mark and I were hurtling, stunned and sleep-deprived towards a certain oblivion when a voice from the control tower tells us ‘thank you, we’ll take it from here’.
There is a dance we all do, as death approaches. It’s a choreography designed to save us from the terror of thought and compliance. If we’re not dealing with the machinations of death directly, maybe we’ll be saved its untimely outcome. In our most intimate moments, we relinquish the reins.
In The Tibetan Book of Living and Dying, Sogyal Rinpoche talks about our reticence to discuss death. Our Western distaste for giving voice to the only law that never changes.
“It is important to reflect calmly that death is real,” she says. “Humans spend all their lives preparing, preparing, preparing. Only to meet death unprepared.”
I know the feeling. We’d been preparing for six years. And we were hopelessly unready.
“We desperately want everything to continue as it is that we have to believe that things will always stay the same. But belief has little to do with reality,” she says.
But what are hospices if not death factories? Efficient, productive, calm and ordered, they’re the model of advanced manufacturing: like some gold-standard Scandinavian or Japanese production line. But we talk about how lovely the cakes are. Of birdsong in the garden. Of respite, not release.
The first time Mark came to the hospice, the ash and beech trees outside his window were beginning to blush after an unseasonal September cold snap. Now the November sun sets fire to the few golden remaining leaves and there’s a smoky, end of summer smell in the air.
A handful of days before he dies I’m taken into the family room by one of Mark’s consultants: a young woman no older than 30. She tells me that Mark needs more sedation, that they’ve tried lowering his heady cocktail of midazolam, morphine and lorazepam but it leaves him agitated and angry, bellowing for me, and refusing any intervention. They’d called me from work, and when I arrived I knew instantly that now is the time to stay. The thought of Mark crying out for me, and for me to be anywhere but by his side sickens me.
“Whatever we give him won’t affect the outcome,” his doctor says.
I nod blankly, “I don’t want him to suffer. I don’t want him to be upset.”
But there is a deal to be struck. The medication will, just as surely as a gun, take Mark from me. His eyes are closed, his mind now will obviously drift away too. And then his body.
I ask about the likelihood of overdose. “He’s already on enough sedation to knock us all out,” his doctor says. There are six of us in the room. “He has a high tolerance level.”
But there are limits. I know this. “But even my Boots sleeping tablets could kill, if I run amok with them,” I say to them, trying to break the tension. I grope towards a subtext. Are they saying they’ll sedate him to death? That time is now more precious than ever? That we should talk?
When you’re dealing with the end of time, you take things minute by minute. And this minute, I want Mark to be happy. The next? The next is a gift.
I nod. The medics leave. Mark’s shouting will cease soon, but I fear that, in reality, the doctors have just sedated me, too.
–
As I drive, a stormfront of 3G and GPSs swirls above. Crackling halos of connectivity keeping me firmly in my place. My sat-nav’s ‘home’ icon used to act like a beacon. At the end of a long day away, I’d eagerly prod it with my thumb and follow its call back to my place on the globe. To home. A route that’s been forever wiped off the map. Now the LCD cottage looks as deceitful as a gingerbread house in a Grimm tale.
Somehow, I find my way to a hushed town straddling Offa’s Dyke, hunkered beneath the hills of the Welsh Marches. A town that’s all past; antiques shops, an ironmonger’s and a second hand book store.
I take refuge in a half-timbered pub, sucking in the conviviality like a drowning man gasping for air. While I wait for my lunch, I use my phone’s weak internet connection to find a hotel. I call and book, and then, in a heady microsecond of excitement, reach for the keypad again to tell Mark where we’re staying. Some habits die hard.
After lunch I follow a trail that leads from the pub’s car park to the town’s scrubby section of Offa’s Dyke – the toothy remains of an ancient earthwork of banks and ditches, rising like a rictus grin from the frozen fields.
Beyond the Dyke the path continues along a waymarked trail up the side of a steeply sloped hill. A ridge walk rises high up above circling jackdaws, cawing like cables under tension.
I climb, and promise myself I’ll complete the two hour circular walk gleaned from a leaflet in the pub, but the final scramble to the top, lungs burning, confirms my suspicions: this past year has left me stupidly, comically unfit.
Below, a river deliberates in loops and bright, glinting shallows. It’s a border river – like Styx, I imagine. Up on the hill a melting hoar frost lags broken fronds, the brittle remains of a summer long spent. I run my fingers through frosted herbs singed with a memory of sunlight, and a scatter of buds catches the breeze, sparking the sky like embers.
And I remember the herbs Mark grew in our garden, dried on the washing line and siphoned into little glass bottles: a taste of our last summer together. A collection of tiny bottles arranged now like exhibits of fragments ancient and precious. A souvenir of a place and time, destined, now, never to season any dish.
As I stroll, partridges wheel away into the undergrowth, and a passing cloud chills the ridge top. I’m suddenly struck by the mutability of things – this landscape, my body, our plans. A mineral silence radiates from the mountains and presses hard against my ears. A spike of panic takes root somewhere deep within, and I head back to the car.
In another autumn, we came to this huddled little town, curved silently around the river like an oxbow lake. We shopped for things we didn’t need. Browsed an hour in the market place. Took pleasure in the unnecessary luxury of it all. A weekend break, a handful of new memories to pack up, take home and store away for later.
And then I realise – I’ve not been escaping at all. I’ve been searching. My yearning has found a physical route: as futile as a lovelorn teenager, returning to the Saturday afternoon spot where they spied someone they liked the week before. The logic of the restless.
Irrational, compulsive, primordial.
I’m searching for a lost object. And in this limbo of meaningless activity and reprocessing all I feel for certain is that I know had it when I was here, in this town stranded between two states, where nothing much changes, and every spire and street is numinous with memories.
At the hotel, I fall into a deep afternoon sleep. And, as I struggle towards consciousness, I hear Mark rummaging downstairs. He’s up before me, I think. I’d better get dressed. And then I realise that image, briefly so real, belongs again to another country.
